It’s an early morning wake-up call for us as we reluctantly roll out of bed for day six, and the last day of our amazing ride. The thermometer shows a biting 1°C outside. A hot mug of coffee brings some life back into my cold body and the others too are grateful for the hot drinks. Thankfully, our patient from last night has recovered considerably and is ready to take a ride in the pickup.

We bid farewell to the stunning Pangong Tso, a lake surrounded by three magnificent mountain ranges: the Changchenmo Range, the Pangong Range, and the Kailash Range. The lake, framed by these towering giants, is a sight to behold. The Changchenmo Range runs along the eastern and northern banks, with the famous spurs Finger-1 to Finger-8 stretching out like a hand reaching for the sky. The Pangong Range hugs the southern bank, from Tangtse in the west to Chushul near the center. And then there’s the Kailash Range, stretching from Lukung in the west to Phursook Bay and the sacred Mount Kailash.

As we leave Pangong and head towards the formidable Chang La Pass, the cold bites harder. Riding two Classic Royal Enfield 350CCs and eight Royal Enfield 411CCs, with the trusty pickup flying our flag high, our group looks like a scene from an adventurous movie. The air is crisp, and every breath feels like a small victory against the freezing temperature.

The ride to Chang La Pass is an experience etched into history and nature alike. Not many know that this pass was part of the ancient Silk Route, a fact that adds a layer of mystique to our journey. Chang La gained additional fame after Jurassic ammonoids were discovered here, marking it as an ecologically and historically significant site.

The pass itself stretches 15 km, with roads that are incredibly steep and challenging, maintained by the Indian Army due to border disputes with China. We ride through a mix of snow, hail, ice, wind, rain, and occasional sunny stretches, making it the most difficult but exhilarating journey so far. My fingers are freezing and bleeding as I’ve been riding without gloves to capture photos on my iPhone and Insta360, and my balancing act and perseverance have been impressive! My face is numb despite the visor, and my body is feeling the cold under the layers of padding. And I am not the only one. I can see Nubu trying to defrost his fingers, and the other riders are also chilled to the bone.

At an elevation of 5,392m (17,586ft), Chang La is the third-highest motorable road in the world. The ascent is a test of endurance and willpower, with sheer rock faces on one side and deep cliffs on the other. The air thins as we climb higher, making every breath feel precious. Headaches and nausea from altitude sickness are common, and we see many people doubled up alongside the road.

As we reach the top, the vista that unfolds before us is breathtaking. Snow-capped mountains stretch endlessly, a majestic reward for the arduous climb.

The final leg of our journey takes us back to Leh. We ride 180 kilometers, a stretch that feels both triumphant and exhausting. The thought of Leh at a ‘warm’ 12°C is inviting and keeps us going.

Along the way, we encounter some of the unique wildlife that calls this rugged terrain home. We spot yaks, their thick fur coats providing insulation against the cold, grazing placidly on the mountain ranges. Wild donkeys, known as kiang, trot gracefully, their robust forms adapted to the harsh environment. Graeme, Roshan, and Nishad have the privilege of spotting the Himalayan marmot, its furry body popping out of the ground. And we still cannot believe our luck having seen the elusive snow leopard last evening. These encounters with the local fauna add a magical touch to our journey, reminding us of the resilience and diversity of life in these extreme conditions.

This journey through Chang La Pass, with its historical significance and breathtaking natural beauty, becomes an adventure that engraves itself deep within our souls. Each twist and turn of the road, every gasp for breath in the thin air, and every shiver from the biting cold weave into the fabric of this unforgettable experience.

As we make our way back to Leh, the memories of the day linger, serving as a poignant reminder of the incredible beauty and resilience inherent in both nature and the human spirit. Though fatigued, we are filled with elation at having conquered nearly 900 kms of challenging terrain with no major mishaps.

Above all, we’ve tackled formidable roads, triumphed over the hurdles of the journey, and demonstrated our unwavering perseverance. But perhaps the most precious treasure gained on this journey is the bonds of friendship we’ve forged along the way. What began as a spontaneous adventure has blossomed into a cherished memory of a lifetime.