Imagine over 500 monks living and meditating silently in a thickly forested, 1,600 acre, mountainous monastic retreat which has architecturally faultless waterways, drip ledges, stairways cut into stone, naturally ‘air conditioned’ caves, toilets, monuments, artefacts and other cool stuff. Now imagine all this happened over 3000 years ago!

This is Rajagala, a sprawling Buddhist monastery from the 2nd century BCE through the early 13th century. Vacated in 993 and 1017AD due to South Indian invasions, this retreat was discovered in 1890 by the Department of Archeology when an unusual amount of relics were recorded in their surveys. But once again, this monastic complex was forgotten until excavation began in the early 1950s during which time they discovered over 600 prehistoric ruins, monuments and artefacts, nearly a 100 of them being ancient stupas.

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COVID-19 disrupted a lot of my travel plans throughout 2021. The frequent lockdowns and travel restrictions meant that pre-booked destinations had to be postponed indefinitely. One of which was my trip to the Ahaspokuna in Belihuloya where I was to go in April 2021. Now, nine months later, I am finally on my way.

There is no road access from the main Rajawaka road to the campsite. Therefore we park our vehicles in the garden of a villager’s home and meet our guides from the campsite. Raj and his co-workers from the Ahaspokuna Bush Walks Campsite advise us to put on leech socks.

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It is easy to miss the inconspicuous turn off to the Kudumbigala Archaeological Site on the main road en route to the entrance of the Kumana National Park.

However, the Kudumbigala rock can be seen from this far, standing like a sentinel overlooking the Park below.

Even from this distance, the ancient cylindrical dome can be spotted.

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Scrambling through the Sinharaja Rainforest is not just about plucking slimy leeches off my clothes. Once I perfect the art of annihilation or flicking them away, it is good to enjoy and appreciate the amazing foliage around me, especially the colourful and intricate lichen.

The Sinharaja Rainforest is an amazing bio hotspot and unique lowland forest. It is also the only such forest remaining in Sri Lanka.

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It’s 5:30 a.m. and the lobby of the Deer Park Hotel is buzzing with excitement …or is it anticipation? Today we try to summit the much-talked about and carefully planned hike to the top of Danigala. This rock is also known as the Alien Mountain because of its unique semi-circular shape caused by geological activities and weathering conditions or, perhaps some mysterious alien activity. It is also, interestingly,  called the ‘Star Gate of King Ravana’, because, according to folklore, it is where Ravana landed his famed ‘Dandu Monara’.

We travel towards Aralaganwila to the Kandegama Rajamaha Viharaya, (also called Dhananjaya Rajamaha Viharaya), that lies at the foothill of this mysterious mountain. Again, it is the head priest that has to allow us to climb and he sends for a villager to act as our guide. No one is allowed to climb without one and we will soon find out why!

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