The cold morning air wraps around us like a comforting embrace as we gather outside the Acacia Inn, our starting point for the day’s adventure on stage 11 of the Pekoe Trail, from Horton Plains to Udaveriya.  With temperatures hovering around 14 degrees Celsius, we layer up, eager to embark on the journey that lies ahead.

Our group of (now increased to) eight adventurers packs tightly into a Bolero jeep, some getting comfortable on mattresses laid out in the back, while the others clamber into the front seats of this rather unsteady vehicle.

Laxman (the Inn’s caretaker/driver) promises to carry us safely through the rugged terrain.

I hop onto the back of a motorcycle with Yasiru (Laxman’s assistant). The ride to the entrance of Horton Plains takes us approximately 40 minutes.

Arriving at Horton Plains by 8:00 am, we have a quick (packed) breakfast before heading out on our trek. This stage commences at the Farr Inn, once a hunting lodge for British colonial officials, now repurposed as a visitor center. Under the management of the Department of Wildlife Conservation, the historic inn stands adjacent to the main car park, serving as the starting point for most visitors embarking on the trek to World’s End and the Pekoe Trail 11.

The first part of this 13.03km trek is on the main tarred road towards Ohiya. The scenery around us is of the vast plains with an occasional sambar deer gazing at us from the distance. After six kilometers, we veer off onto a dirt path which leads to the Devil’s Staircase. This part of the trail is also the highest point of the entire Pekoe Trail.

The trail gets more interesting from this point as we head down, skirting the top of the famed Devil’s Staircase, spanning from the Ohiya-Horton Plains road to a quaint village where a path traverses the mountain, leading to Udaweriya Valley. This stage of the trail is also known as the steepest downward descent along the Pekoe Trail. The scenery along this trail is pretty, with the path winding gracefully around the mountain.

The weather keeps changing frequently,  from misty to totally clear skies. When it’s clear, we can see the captivating vistas stretching outwards.

Along the way, we stop to chat with local villagers, their warm smiles and friendly greetings adding to the sense of camaraderie that has pervaded our journey.

And I stop for every little wildflower.

Midway through our trek, we pause to catch our breath. It’s not a particularly hot day but the trek can be hard on the feet. It also gives us a chance to take in the breathtaking scenery of panoramic vistas to hidden waterfalls that this trail offers of the untamed beauty of Sri Lanka.

Transitioning from one secluded valley to the next marks the lowest point of this journey. Known as the “hidden valley,” this place occupies a unique position at the brink of tea country, facing southward. Its remarkable topography is a rarity, as few south-facing tea-growing valleys exist in this region.

And much to our surprise and delight, we stumble upon a sprawling tea field enveloped in a sea of “mistflowers,” transforming the area into a spectacle reminiscent of a winter wonderland.

The tea bushes are completely covered in this blanket of ‘mist-ifying snow’. Utterly breathtaking!

A few more kilometers and we can see the Udaweriya Manager’s Bungalow, and the weathered, abandoned Udaweriya Tea Factory, now a mere skeleton of steel beams. 

Here, Yasiru meets us to refresh us with iced cold drinks! 

By late afternoon, we have come to the end of this trail and it’s a relief to peel off our shoes and give our feet a good rest. 

From the cold morning chill to the warmth of newfound friendships, our journey along the Pekoe Trail has been a testament to the spirit of adventure that beats within us all. The entire trail has taken us approximately 5:45 hours. And as we settle in for the night, we have already made a plan for tomorrow! 

Good to know:

Be prepared for rain, thick mist or very sunny days. Check the local weather report before you start.

Take bottled water and snacks to have along the way.

Locals and foreigners have to purchase entrance tickets to Horton Plains National Park.

Do NOT litter along the trail.

Wear good hiking shoes as the descent can be very slippery.

Recommended place to stay is the Acacia Inn. Contact Laxman on 071 033 5207 for reservations.