Day five dawns cold and bright and the morning sun peeks over the mountains towering above the Paramount Camp as we gear up for another adventure. Today, we ride from Hunder in the Nubra Valley to Turtuk, a village nestled between the Karakoram Range and the Himalayas. While the rest of our group rests, three bikes take off—Ajith, Roshan, and Nubu lead the way. Krishni and I ride on pillions, feeling the thrill of the journey. Tarique and Khairy follow in the pickup along with Tensin and Ali, ready to support if needed.

The air is crisp as we start our ride, the village slowly waking up to another beautiful day. The landscape around Hunder is breathtaking, with sand dunes and green fields coexisting in a stunning contrast. The poplar and willow trees, its timber used for building homes are plenty in Ladakh. Apricot trees are bountiful. As we leave Hunder, the road ahead promises new adventures and stories waiting to be uncovered.

The ride is exhilarating. The Royal Enfield engines hum in harmony as we feel the wind in our bones and sun in our faces. Nubu, our skilled leader, navigates the winding roads with confidence, while I sit confidently and comfortably on his pillion. I feel like a pro now! His experience shines through as we tackle sharp bends and steep climbs. 

The beauty of the Nubra Valley unfolds with every turn—snow-capped peaks, deep valleys, and the sparkling Shyok River accompanying us on our journey. This has been the best road surface so far. 

After almost two hours of riding, we stop for a break at the Shyok Valley, home to the Shyok River or “River of Death,” that has a long and grim history. The name “Shyok” is believed to come from Central Asian traders, known as Yarkandis, who traversed this perilous route for centuries, many perishing along the way. This area was once a crucial part of the ancient trade route from Yarkand to Ladakh, where only the hardiest survived. The path towards the Karakoram Pass is littered with the bones of these ill-fated travellers, a stark reminder of its deadly past.

The Shyok river originates from the Rimo Glacier, one of the tongues of the Siachen Glacier, the highest battleground in the world, where India and Pakistan have engaged in intermittent conflict since April 13, 1984. Both nations sustain a constant military presence in this area at altitudes exceeding 6,000m (20,000ft). Even as we travel, we constantly see military barracks, presence, and forces with many Ladakis making this their profession. 

Turtuk, our destination, is one of the northernmost villages of India, close to the Line of Control between India and Pakistan. This small village, situated in the Baltistan region, has a unique history. It was administered by Pakistan until the 1971 war when the Indian Army regained control. The villagers, granted permanent Indian citizenship, now live with tales of a divided past and a hopeful future.

As we ride closer to Turtuk, the landscape changes. The Karakoram Range stands tall, its rugged beauty a stark reminder of the region’s tumultuous history. We cross the Shyok River, its waters glistening under the sun. The road here is narrow and winding, but the Royal Enfields handle it with grace, their steady hum a comforting presence.

Arriving in Turtuk feels like stepping into a different world. The village is a picturesque haven, with its orchards of apricots and lush greenery. The locals, the Balti people, greet us with warm smiles. Their stories of life on the border, of a village once divided, add a rich layer to our journey.

Turtuk is not just a village; it is a storyteller of the days when it was part of Pakistan, of the 1971 war, and the transition to Indian administration. It is about the challenges and the resilience that defines their community. 

After a hearty meal we leave this wayward village back to Hunder. 

By the time we return to Hunder after a total of 160kms, we are tired but elated. The experiences of the day are etched in our hearts, stories to be shared and remembered. This ride to Turtuk is more than a journey; it is a testament to the beauty of exploration, the richness of history, and the spirit of adventure that binds us all.

The rest of the team have spent their day strolling through Hunder and as the evening closes in, we gather around to imbibe in a glass of Old Monk. Together we share laughter and stories, as over the days our friendship has grown stronger.