Stage 21 of the 300km Pekoe Trail is typically hiked from Uda Pussellawa to Kandapola, but for our adventure, we decided to do it in reverse—to avoid much of the climb. Covering a total distance of 19 kilometers over seven hours, this hike turned out to be a journey of changing landscapes, local hospitality, and rewarding moments.

The day before our hike, we stopped by the Bale Bazaar in Nuwara Eliya to stock up on raincoats. The weather forecast warned of thundershowers, but we weren’t going to let that deter us. Armed with waterproof gear, we were prepared for whatever the skies had in store for us.

We started our hike in the early morning under a light drizzle.

The mist hung low over the tea estates, creating an ethereal atmosphere as we walked through the quiet town of Kandapola and into the trails beyond. The cool morning air, combined with the scent of damp earth and fresh tea leaves, made for a refreshing start. Though the forecast had predicted storms, luck was on our side.

As the hours passed, the clouds cleared, giving way to blue skies and gentle sunshine—perfect conditions for a long hike.

The trail took us through stunning tea plantations, pine forests, and small villages where we encountered friendly locals going about their day.

The undulating path, with its mix of ascents and descents, kept the hike interesting. Along the way, we were greeted by tea pluckers and school children, adding to the charm of the trail. Occasionally, we crossed small streams and footbridges, with the gurgling sound of water adding to the peaceful ambiance of the trail.

About halfway through, we stopped for lunch at the Ambalama Junction, where we were welcomed into the home of Ariyaratne, a kind and hospitable local. He and his family treated us to a delicious home-cooked meal—simple but bursting with flavor. The rice and curries, made with fresh ingredients and a generous dose of Sri Lankan spices, were just what we needed to refuel for the rest of the journey. It was moments like these that truly made the hike special—not just the landscapes, but the people and experiences along the way. This is exactly the type of sustainable tourism the Pekoe Trail aims to promote—supporting local communities while offering hikers authentic cultural experiences.

After lunch, we continued our trek toward Uda Pussellawa. The second half of the hike brought more diversity in scenery, from eucalyptus forests to misty hills. The air became cooler, and we began to notice more moisture along the path—ideal conditions for leeches. As we moved deeper into the forested areas, leeches became a real challenge, clinging to our boots and trying to find their way onto our skin. We stopped periodically to check our legs and flick them off, but despite our efforts, a few managed to latch on. It was an unavoidable part of hiking in these wet, lush regions, and we took it in stride as part of the adventure.

We paused often to take in the views and enjoy the peacefulness of being deep in nature but also to imbibe in some “trail fix”. As we neared Uda Pussellawa, the trail became gentler, allowing us to ease into the final stretch of our journey. The mist was also rolling in by this time.

By the time we reached Uda Pussellawa, we were tired but deeply satisfied. The hike had been everything we hoped for—challenging, scenic, and filled with unexpected delights. Our only regret was not finding a good spot to take a refreshing dip. Reflecting on the day, we were grateful that despite the gloomy forecast, we had chosen to step onto the trail and embrace whatever came our way. Stage 21 in reverse turned out to be a fantastic choice, and as always, the Pekoe Trail delivered another unforgettable journey. Can’t wait for the next one!

Good to Know:

Carry leech socks, a raincoat and repellent. 

Ariyaratne can be contacted on 0716296963. Call him at the start of the trail and place your order. Lunch per person costs LKR 700.

Get yourself dropped off at the start of the trail. Driving distance from Nuwara Eliya town is about 30 mins. And the return from Uda Pussellawa is about 1 hour.

Accommodation at Marigold Home Nuwara Eliya