We kicked off Stage 17 of the Pekoe Trail just after 6:20 a.m., fueled by excitement, good company, and the cool, sweet air of Demodara. But before taking even one step, we paused for a bit of Sri Lankan magic: the moment the iconic blue train snaked its way (sharp on time at 6:24 a.m.), through the famous Demodara Loop. It appeared from a tunnel below us, only to reappear at the station on the other side. A slow, surreal loop that never gets old—pure engineering poetry and a perfect way to start our day.

The trail from Demodara to Hali-Ela is around 14 km and takes you through misty tea estates, sleepy villages, winding railway tracks, and shady forest patches.

The first stretch was gentle, almost dreamy. But about halfway through, we hit a 6 km climb that definitely made us work for our views. There was some heavy breathing, a few dramatic groans, and a lot of water breaks—but also sunshine, a clear blue sky, and hills so lush and green they looked painted on.

The trail itself is well-marked and kind to the feet, letting us take in the views without having to constantly look down. We stopped often—not because we had to, but because we wanted to. The tea-covered hills stretched out like velvet, waterfalls glinted in the distance, and everywhere we looked felt like a postcard waiting to be captured.

The day started cool and crisp, but as the sun climbed higher, so did the temperature. By mid-morning, I was peeling off a layer of clothing and wondering wishing fervently for a stream to soak in.

The heat brought out a few leeches too—Kiran, our newest and most cheerful addition to the crew, was the main course for those little bloodsuckers. He handled it like a champ.

As for the rest of the gang—what a lineup. Only Hemanthi could turn stubbed toes and random trail musings into a comedy routine. Anna’s oversized snack box was practically a mobile buffet. Avi, putting his newly reconditioned heart valves to the test, walked like he had something to prove (and maybe he did). Arittha oscillated between being hilariously grumpy and just hilariously witty—we could never really tell which mode he was in. Ranji, my 85-year-old uncle, moved with the quiet strength of someone who knows the hills better than they know themselves. 

Of course, the scenery wasn’t the only thing keeping us going.

The snacks were next-level. Anna’s snack box came through once again—overflowing with chocolate cupcakes, sweet pineapple, almond tarts, and melt-in-your-mouth eclairs. Somewhere between a proper hike and a hilltop tea party, we even had plenty of vodka mixer to keep the vibe alive. We may not have been the fastest hikers out there, but we were definitely the happiest—and the best-fed.

We reached Hali-Ela just before 1:30 p.m., sun-kissed, very sweaty, and completely content. We had our van pick us up at the Hali Ela train station and drive us back to Ella, shoes dusty, legs tired, but spirits ridiculously high. The rest of the afternoon was pure bliss: long showers, cups of strong tea, and that satisfying tiredness that only comes after a good walk.

Then came Ella after dark.

There’s something special about this little town once the sun sets. We cleaned up, rallied the group, and challenged the men to treat us to a well-earned Mother’s Day dinner. We bar-hopped, sipped cold beers, swapped stories from the trail, and ended the night with pizza, live music, and wholesome chatter that only good friends can enjoy. 

Stage 17 had everything: views, good vibes, better snacks, and a night out that tied it all together. One for the books.

Good to Know:

Carry leech socks, a raincoat and repellent. 

Driving distance from Ella town to the start of the trail is about 20 mins. And the return from Hali Ela is approximately 45 minutes. 

We stayed at Villa Eden Paradise, conveniently located just 100mts from the Ella strip.