I planned this as a glamping trip fully expecting comfortable tents and a bit of luxury in the hills. What I get is… not that.

The setup is basic. Two tents come with proper beds, while another is just three mattresses laid out on the ground. No frills, no extras, no “glam.” But once the eight of us adjust expectations, it stops mattering. The setting does all the work.

We leave Colombo early on Saturday morning, before the city properly wakes up and starts simmering in this heat wave we are experiencing. We head straight for cooler air and open space. Breakfast is a quick roadside stop of a mix of whatever everyone has brought along, paired with hot coffee that feels especially good as the temperature drops.

By around 9 AM, we reach the foothills of the Great Western mountain range. The campsite, set within the Talawakelle Tea Estates, sits at a great location. Getting there, though, means a proper uphill walk with all our gear. Steep enough to get my heart rate up immediately. Once we get to the top, it clicks. Open views, clean air, and right ahead, a clear sightline of Adam’s Peak rising above the clouds.

After settling in, we lace up our boots, grab our backpacks, and head down towards the Great Western railway station. From there, we start walking along the tracks.

Right now, the line is completely silent and trains have been halted after Cyclone Ditwah damaged sections of the railway, and in places, the tracks look barely intact. It feels slightly surreal walking along them,

The climb starts soon after, and it gets tough quickly. This isn’t a casual hike. The trail is barely used these days and is overgrown, slippery, and in places almost invisible. Murali, our guide, clears the way as we go, literally kicking through vegetation and pulling us up steeper sections.

It becomes a full team effort. Avi, Kiran, Anna, and Anoma are in the thick of it, while our newbies Gothira, Neelika, and Vijula, get a very literal “welcome to Mihipedia” as we all scramble, slip, and laugh our way up to as far as we can go. It’s a really hard climb and is leaving many of us winded and tired. 

At about 2,212 metres, Great Western is the seventh highest mountain in Sri Lanka, and it feels like it. Unfortunately, we don’t make it to the summit this time; the heat and the intensity of the trail prove a bit too much for the day.

The descent isn’t much easier. Most of it involves sliding down loose ground and in my case, largely on my backside. Days later, I am still paying the price for this action.

Somewhere along the route, we find the reward.

A natural bathing spot just below the railway line — clear water running over rocks into a small pool. It’s freezing cold, but exactly what we need.

Shoes come off, bags get dropped, and we ease into the water one by one. Then the drinks come out. Beers and vodka go straight into the stream to chill  with no effort needed. We linger there, half in the water, passing drinks around, laughing, reliving the climb, and settling into that relaxed, easy camaraderie that comes from sharing a day like this together.

We stay there for over two hours, letting the exhaustion slowly drain out  and the “spirits” settle in.

Back at camp, everything slows down. The BBQ is cooking, the campfire is strong, and the temperature drops fast. Dinner quietly turns into a full-blown evening. Gin, vodka, wine — everything makes an appearance. Plans are made for future hikes, upcoming birthdays, gatecrashing “nana’s” opening night, and “definitely doing this again” weekends. Conversations get louder, laughter gets constant, and at some point, Anoma pulls out a bottle of JD Cinnamon. That disappears suspiciously fast thanks to multiple enthusiastic “just one more” shots.

Eventually, the “youngest” of the group decides he’s had enough and attempts the short journey back to his tent — wearing both his own glasses and Neelika’s, for reasons no one can explain.

He still doesn’t make it. We find him sprawled outside his tent, completely out of action, and have to carry him back in like a fallen hero. That, unsurprisingly, becomes the story of the trip.

Sunday morning turns out to be perfect. Cool, quiet, and clear heads and weather, of course! Coffee and tea are essential and do their job. Breakfast is simple: kiribath with lunu miris, filling and exactly what is needed.

We pack up and leave around 11 AM, heading down towards Kitulgala for lunch before making our way back to Colombo. We’re back by early evening—tired, a bit sore, but in great spirits.

Great Western delivers more than you expect, just not in the way you might plan.

It’s not polished. It’s not comfortable in the traditional sense. But it offers amazing mountain views, a physically challenging hike, cold, clean air and a setting that makes everything,  even basic camping feel worthwhile.

Either way, it’s a weekend well spent.