Where Shadows Tell Time. Manigala Sri Lanka

Nestled near Pitawala Gama, along the road to Illukkumbura, lies Manigala, a popular hill station located within the Knuckles Range. The journey to this haven of natural splendor begins from Riverston, winding its way from the Knuckles Conservation Center through mountains, plains, and parks, offering a glimpse into the biodiversity-rich ecosystem of the Dumbara or Knuckles Range.

We drive up to Rathinda, where we park the vehicle. We are spending the night at a small village so our backpacks have an overnight change of clothes. We are ready to roll!

Buying tickets to enter the zone.

Starting our trek from the picturesque Rathinda village, we are immediately met with a steep climb over craggy rocks. The path ahead promises adventure and discovery, beckoning us to ascend to the summit of Manigala.

At 1104 meters above sea level, the summit of Manigala awaits, challenging us with its craggy rocks and slippery slopes. Guided by the seasoned wisdom of old Ekanayake, our impatient guide who we have nicknamed “NoBell” (for reasons known only to us), our group of five venture forth, embarking on a journey that will test our endurance and ignite our spirits.

As we navigate the difficult terrain, time seems to blur, each step bringing us closer to the storied summit.

The history of Manigala unfolds before us, a tapestry woven with tales by ancient villagers with  legends of kings and warriors that have echoed through the ages. It is said that King Ravana’s flight graced the peak of Manigala some 7500 years ago, earning it the moniker “Ravana Thenna” among the villagers.

Another legend speaks of the mountain’s role as a sundial for ancient villagers, who used its shadow to determine the time of day. Tamil laborers, working on the Riverston estate, noticed the daily occurrence of sunlight casting a shadow on the rock at 4:30 p.m. In Tamil, time is denoted by “mani.” Hence, the stone, serving as a marker of time’s passage, earned the moniker Manigala, embodying the profound heritage of the region and its inhabitants.

On this hot and humid day, the time on my Apple Watch reads 11.30 a.m as we reach the summit into a world of breathtaking panorama. We have climbed almost 2kms. From the Knuckles Mountain Range to the distant Sudugala, every peak and valley tells a story of ancient civilizations and untamed wilderness. And amidst the beauty, there is a sense of urgency, a reminder of the fragile ecosystems that call Manigala home.

We take a break sitting on the edge of a precipice before Ekanayake hurries us down. There are distant rain clouds that are speeding towards us. We have to get down and on the road to Walpolamulla before the skies open up.

As I bid farewell to this sacred mountain, I am reminded of the timeless beauty and ancient lore that defines Manigala. Though this journey may end here, and despite the occasional grumbles and frustrations from the tail-enders, the spirit of adventure and discovery that has been ignited within me will continue to guide me on new adventures.

Taking a break. Ekanayake, Dilum, Sharon, Krishni and myself

From here on, we continue our journey on to Walpolamulla, the smallest village in Asia.

Good to know:

Wear good hiking shoes and wear leech socks and carry repellent.

Raincoats will come in handy.

Do NOT litter along the way.

Be kind to the dogs that will surely guide you along the way.

Start your ascent early and get down before dark.

10 Comments Add yours

  1. Sounds like another exciting adventure Mihiri. What a lot of beautiful places our little Island has to offer. Thanks for sharing.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Mihiri Wikramanayake's avatar Mihiri Wikramanayake says:

      We do have some amazing places. And we are lucky to see many of them, aren’t we?

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Anoma de Sylva's avatar Anoma de Sylva says:

    The stony climbs would have been a fun challenge. The views would have been well worth the effort. I too personally prefer a degree of difficulty on a hike and this one looks like it had some, doesn’t it? Thanks for sharing the adventure, Mihiri.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Mihiri Wikramanayake's avatar Mihiri Wikramanayake says:

      Yes I agree. Some of the Pekoe Trails are boring to boot. But the leeches here deny us any sort of enjoyment along the way. Remember how we had to hurry along trail 2 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

  3. ajith.ratnayaka@gmail.com's avatar ajith.ratnayaka@gmail.com says:

    So sad I couldn’t join the hike.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Mihiri Wikramanayake's avatar Mihiri Wikramanayake says:

    There is always a next time 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

Leave a comment