In the heart of Sri Lanka’s untamed wilderness lies a secret waiting to be uncovered – the enigmatic village of Walpolamulla, better known as the smallest village in Asia. Having heard about this village nearly two years ago, my curiosity is piqued, and I embark on a trek to visit this village. 

Venturing off the beaten path from the climb to Manigala, the five of us brave the rugged terrain and jungles that stand between us and our destination. The trail to Walpolamulla is no easy feat, with nearly three (more) kilometers of craggy, leech-infested track testing our resolve at every turn. But determined to complete this trek, we press on, driven by the promise of adventure that lies ahead.

This dried up lake is a camping site for the brave!

As we emerge from the dense foliage, the village comes into view – a lone hut amidst the sprawling wilderness of the Knuckles Reserve. Here, amidst the towering mountains and paddy fields, lives the last remaining family in this remote corner of the world – Vajira and her husband.

Their humble abode, a simple mud hut tucked away amidst the verdant landscape, is a testament to the resilience of the human spirit.

It is here that Vajira’s husband toils tirelessly, working the land to eke out a living from the fertile soil. Despite the challenges they face, the couple embodies a quiet strength and determination, their bond with the land unbroken by the passage of time.

According to them, several generations have lived here until marauding elephants and encroaching jungles have driven them all away. Today, only the two of them remain. Their sons seeking better opportunities in larger towns. 

But our journey is far from over. Thankfully, just as we reach our destination, the heavens open up and the rain pours down. My first thought is, “oh no! this is going to bring out more leeches!”. As the rain pours down Krishny and I bathe at an outdoor water barrel, mindful of the leeches climbing up our legs. Despite the chill of the water, we take time to enjoy its freshness and wash away all the grime and weariness of our journey.

As the rain beats down outside, we take refuge in the warmth of their home, sharing stories and laughter over cups of coffee served in coconut shells. The evening brings a simple meal of roti and rice, followed by an early night’s rest as we drift off to sleep to the sounds of the falling rain. 

As dawn breaks, we bid farewell to our gracious hosts and set out once more into the unknown. The night’s rain means the trail ahead is fraught with peril – slippery slopes, leech-infested paths, and treacherous terrain lie in wait. But with each obstacle overcome, our spirits soar higher, fueled by the thrill of exploration and the fact that we did this somehow.

By the end of the trek, I have lost count of the number of leeches that have feasted on me.

Leaving Walpolamulla behind, I am filled with a sense of exhilaration and wonder. With each step, I am reminded of the resilience and fortitude of those who call this remote corner of the world home – and inspired to continue exploring, discovering, and uncovering the hidden marvels that lie waiting to be found.

Good to know:

• Accommodation only at this village cost LKR 10,000. F&B is separate.
• Accommodation is very basic. 
• Contact Nuwan for reservations on 070 358 2236
• The trail is leech-infested. So go prepared with leech socks and repellent.
• Start your journey early to avoid getting lost in the dark.
• Take a local guide to lead the way.
• Be kind to the dogs that follow you. They only want your company.
• Raincoats will be useful.