This is day 04 for us. The journey from Leh to Khardung La Pass is not just a trip; it’s an adventure that promises a blend of thrill, natural beauty, and a touch of the extraordinary. Known as the world’s highest motorable road, this route from Leh spans 40 kilometers of dusty, rugged terrain, challenging both the vehicle and the traveler. At an estimated height of 5,602m (18,379 feet), Khardung La Pass stands as a testament to human perseverance and the allure of the unknown.

Our group of intrepid riders is geared up for the toughest ride of our lives. I have layered up adequately… I hope!

The day begins early as we anticipate a long ride ahead. We leave Leh, the charming town that serves as the gateway to this high-altitude adventure. Our luggage is packed into the back of the pickup that will be following us all the way. Our group consists of two Royal Enfield Classic 350CCs and eight Royal Enfield Himalayan 411CCs. I ride pillion with Nubu, the captain of our team.

Following us are Tensin, driving the support pickup with Khairy as his co-pilot, and Ali, our trusty mechanic, who is quick to hoist our national flag to the back of the pickup.

As we leave the cozy confines of our hotel, the crisp morning air fills our lungs, a prelude to the cold we will face at higher altitudes. The road initially winds through the town, gradually transforming from tarmac to gravel and dust. The landscape morphs with every kilometer, the verdant patches of Leh giving way to barren, rocky terrain.

As we ascend, the condition of the road deteriorates. The 40 kilometers to Khardung La is notorious for its challenging conditions—dusty, uneven, and often punctuated with potholes. Yet, each bump and jolt adds to the sense of adventure. Our convoy of motorbikes is just a speck in this lanscape as (apparently) there is an estimated 6000 Royal Enfields on the road each day during this season. This is a sight to behold, a procession of thrill-seekers united by the common goal of conquering this legendary pass.

The journey is physically demanding. The thinning air and increasing altitude make breathing a conscious effort. The rocky landscape is punctuated with occasional patches of ice, a stark reminder of the altitude. Despite the harsh conditions, the scenery is nothing short of breathtaking. The panoramic vistas of snow-capped peaks and deep valleys provide a picturesque backdrop to our arduous journey.

Upon reaching the summit, the temperature has plummeted to a bone-chilling 2°C. Standing at 5,602m, the pass is enveloped in wind, snow and burning hot sun. The sense of accomplishment is palpable among us as some of us conquer the steep climb and bend over trying to catch our breath. We are advised to spend only 20 minutes up here and  quickly take a moment to absorb the view—an expansive panorama of rugged mountains stretching endlessly. This is the Pass of Lower Castle, a name that evokes its majestic and almost regal presence.

The descent from Khardung La into Nubra Valley is equally exhilarating. The road, though still challenging, gradually improves…somewhat. We soon get caught up in road blocks as much of the road is under construction. Thick dust rises from the ground enveloping us while the direct glare from the sun blinds us. Some of our riders have near misses but thankfully avoid serious injury. This has to be one of the worst road conditions we’ve experienced. 

As we descend, the barren landscape starts to change, giving way to the unique beauty of Nubra Valley. One of the highlights is passing the famous sand dunes. A surreal sight in the midst of mountains, these dunes are a stark contrast to the snowy peaks we had just left behind. The play of light and shadow on the dunes creates an almost otherworldly atmosphere.

The valley is also known for the double-humped Bactrian camels.

After almost eleven hours of being on the road we arrive unscathed at the Paramount Camp, where we will break journey. Today we have completed a total of over 120 kms. 

The journey from Leh to Khardung La Pass is more than just a ride; it’s a rite of passage for adventurers. The challenges posed by the dust and bad roads are more than compensated by the stunning vistas and the sheer thrill of traversing the world’s highest motorable road. As we finally descend into the verdant beauty of Nubra Valley, the sense of having conquered something significant stays with us. This trip is a testament to the incredible beauty and challenge that the Himalayas offer, making it a must-do for every thrill-seeker and nature lover.