It’s day 5 of our amazing journey and so far the daily dose of Diamox (to help with altitude sickness) has sustained us. A little nip of the Old Monk every night seems to also help!

Today we decamp and move onwards and upwards to Pangong which is at an altitude of 4,225m (13,860ft). Leaving Hunder early in the morning, our convoy comprising two Royal Enfield Classic 350CCs and eight Royal Enfield 411CCs roars to life, echoing through the serene Nubra Valley. Krishni and I are, again, tucked into the pillions with our respective riders. 

Our first stop is to the historic Diskit Monastery, or Diskit Gompa. The road to the monastery is steep with sheer cliffs on one side, their surfaces etched by centuries of wind and water. The monastery is perched precariously on a rocky hill above the town. 

Founded in the 14th century by Changzem Tserab Zangpo, a disciple of Tsong Khapa—the founder of the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect of Tibetan Buddhism—Diskit Gompa exudes an aura of timeless tranquility. The mighty statue sits above all, whilst devotees pay homage or just gawk in awe. After a brief exploration of its ancient thangkas, vivid murals, turning the prayer wheels and taking in the splendid view from here, we continue our journey.

As we ride the 115 kilometers north from Leh, the landscape around us transforms dramatically. The arid, rugged beauty of Ladakh is mesmerizing. The Nubra Valley, with its lush greenery, suddenly gives way to a stark, almost lunar landscape. The emerald ribbon of the Shyok River winds through the valley, glistening in the early morning light, while the towering mountains, with their snow-capped peaks, stand as ancient sentinels watching over us. It’s a humbling and awe-inspiring sight.

I must mention that navigating the road becomes an adrenaline-charged adventure with thousands of bikers weaving dangerously around us. Among them are daredevils, fearless in their maneuvers, adding an extra element of anxiety to our journey. But the danger doesn’t end there. The presence of the unending “Traveller” vans and the relentless flow of army trucks inject a sense of caution, each moment fraught with the potential for a high-stakes encounter.

Our next stop is Durbuk, where we stop for lunch. The ride is scenic, with the road hugging the contours of the land. Durbuk market, a quaint junction, bustles with activity. It’s an intersection of roads leading to Leh, Nubra, and Pangong Lake. We stop for a quick lunch at a small restaurant run by Padma, a friendly soul who took great effort to ensure we had a decent meal of fried rice, masala omelettes and momos. I think by now we are getting tired of eating the same type of food. But no one grumbles. 

Once refreshed, we head off , but soon take a break at the Black Necked Crane viewpoint as Dammika’s bike starts acting up. The rare Black-Necked Crane, Ladakh’s state bird, is not only a natural marve but also a cultural icon of the Trans-Himalayas and is believed to bring good luck. Little did we realize at this point that this unexpected stop would provide us with an incredible sighting. Ali is quick on the job and we are back on the road

Continuing towards Pangong Lake, the landscape grows more desolate and majestic. We ride through vast plains where the earth seems to stretch endlessly, framed by distant mountains whose peaks remain dusted with snow even in summer. The road takes us through high mountain passes, where the air is thin and the views are spectacular. Below us, deep gorges twist and turn, their depths shrouded in shadow. 

Suddenly, on the Pangong Lake road, a once-in-a-lifetime moment unfolds—a snow leopard has been spotted looking down on us from the mountain just in front of us. We stop, excited, disbelieving and totally awed, watcing this elusive creature of the mountains gazing down at us. After a while, he gets up, stretches and slowly moves with grace, disappearing into the rocky expanse. Despite the lack of professional camera equipment we all manage to capture this surreal magical encounter on our phone cameras. That’s how close he was to us! 

That sighting has renewed our vigour and I know each of us has witnessed something extraordinary.

As we finally reach Pangong Lake, the freezing weather greets us. The lake, a mesmerizing palette of blues, stretches out under the vast sky. The first sight of Pangong Lake is like a revelation—the water, crystal clear and vividly blue, reflects the sky and surrounding mountains, creating a stunning panorama. The snow-capped peaks provide a breathtaking backdrop, their white summits contrasting sharply with the azure waters below. Despite the cold biting through my layers, the sheer beauty of Pangong captivates me. The icy winds and the high altitude challenge the body, but the spirit soars.

The Lake is situated at a height if 4,350m and is the world’s highest saltwater lake. Extending to almost 160km, one third of the lake lies in India and the other two-thirds is in China.  

Leaving the Lake behind we arrive, at last, at our destination, the Hidden Heaven Cottage. Our joy is short-lived as we are told there is no hot water and so we have to make do with cat washes! Ladakh receives only an inch of rain annually and depends on melting glacier snow, making water a precious commodity.

We have ridden a total of 180 kms in 11 hours. My fingers are bruised, my face is sun burnt and my bones are cold! 

The hot water bottles we are given by the hotel helps me get some sleep until I am woken up due to an emergency. That night we have another casualty to altitude sickness and he is whisked off to the nearby hospital for oxygen. Our trip so far has been eventful, to say the least!

This journey, from the sacred halls of Diskit Gompa, to the lucky sighting of the snow leopard, onwards to the wild beauty of Pangong Lake, is a testament to Ladakh’s profound and multifaceted allure. Each moment, each sight, each encounter is a thread in the rich tapestry of travel, woven with wonder and discovery. Riding with friends on these trusty Royal Enfields makes the adventure even more special, each rev of the engine a heartbeat in the symphony of this unforgettable journey. Tomorrow will be our last day of riding through this amazing landscape and we will all make the most of it.