The journey begins early on this Sunday morning and the air crisp and refreshing as we set out from the Arangala Forest Lodge. I’m filled with excitement, unsure of exactly what awaits on the climb ahead to the top of the Arangala Mountain, but certain it’s going to be a challenge. We, my brother Arittha, Avi and Buddhil are accompanied by a guide, Senthil, from the lodge, a seasoned hiker who knows the mountain’s rugged paths like the back of his hand.

Arangala is (supposedly) named after its distinct shape that resembles “arungal” (අරුංගල් – traditional earrings), and stands like a sentinel beside the Dambulla Matale Road, near the small town of Naula. Its silhouette rises with three distinct peaks, each offering a unique experience. The southmost peak is the shortest, topped with a small pagoda, while the northmost is the tallest, reaching about 750 meters. However, it’s the middle peak that captures the imagination with its 360º panoramic view, making it the perfect spot to soak in the beauty of central Sri Lanka.

The trail starts off manageable but quickly becomes a test of endurance and agility and the terrain turns increasingly rugged as we move up, with large, craggy boulders, some over five feet tall blocking the path and forcing us to scramble over them. During the rainy season—typically this time of year but now altered by unpredictable weather—this trail transforms into a rushing waterfall or stream, making the climb nearly impossible. We are thankful for today’s good weather! 

Three times, we rely on thick ropes secured onto trees by Senthil to pull ourselves up, gripping tightly as we scale steep, slick rock faces. With no footholds to rely on, I grab onto branches wherever possible and anything else within reach to keep my balance and steady myself. Every time I conquer a difficult section, there’s a feeling of triumph, a sense of pushing myself just a little further. Many times we pause to catch our breath and to ease our taut limbs.

After three hours of climbing, scrambling and scaling, we finally reach the peaks, and the views immediately make all the effort worthwhile. From the middle peak, the landscape opens up in a breathtaking 360º panorama. To the east, the jagged peaks of the Knuckles Mountain Range rise dramatically into the sky, while the Moragahatenna and Bowatenna Dams shimmer in the distance, their waters reflecting the sunlight. Far below us, the tiny town of Naula looks peaceful, nestled at the foot of the mountain. Off in the distance, we spot the ancient Nalanda Gedige, an old temple complex said to be the geographical center of Sri Lanka.

We take our time here, resting on the flat rocks of the middle peak. The wind,  blowing in from the mountains, is very strong and can easily blow a lightweight over the top. For us, it’s a perfect place to pause and take in the stunning views. The camera comes out, and we spend a good amount of time capturing the scene, trying to hold onto this moment as long as possible. It’s one of those rare instances where time seems to stand still, and you’re fully immersed in the present.

But we have to eventually leave and it’s time to head back down. Our guide warns us that the descent will be even more challenging than the climb, and he’s not wrong. The steepness of the path, combined with the rocky terrain, makes each step down a careful, calculated move. The ropes that helped us climb now become even more crucial as we descend, offering much-needed stability on the slick rock surfaces. My legs, already tired from the ascent, start to feel the strain, and each step requires focus.

I slip a couple of times, catching myself on the rocks, but nothing serious—just grazing  my elbows and knees and skinning my butt. The descent takes us another three hours, and by the time we reach the bottom, my legs are jelly, and my neck aches from constantly looking down. But there’s a sense of satisfaction that comes from completing a tough hike like this, a feeling that I’ve not only conquered the mountain but also tested and surpassed my own limits.

Back at the Arangala Forest Lodge, we hurry to depart as we have some family business to attend to. 

Arangala may not be the most famous mountain in Sri Lanka, but it’s one of those places that leaves a lasting impression, both physically and mentally. The mountain, like its namesake earrings, is a gem—rough around the edges but undeniably striking and  reminder that the best views often come after the hardest climbs.