At this point in the journey, I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve washed my clothes. T-shirts have been rinsed and wrung out more often than they’ve been worn fresh, and let’s not even talk about the socks. Safari life is glorious—but it’s also dusty, sweaty, and delightfully unpredictable.

We  started day 13 with a leisurely breakfast at Topi Lodge, sipping coffee to a soundtrack of rustling acacia leaves and chirping sunbirds. It was supposed to be a straightforward departure, but as always, Africa had other plans. A change in itinerary saw us heading toward Pumba Safari Cottages, perched on the Kyambura escarpment, overlooking the sweeping plains of Queen Elizabeth National Park.

The drive alone was worth the detour. We set off on a new route through Queen Elizabeth National Park, and the scenery gradually opened up into vast, bare expanses.

The park’s dry plains stretched far into the distance, dotted only by the occasional bird or distant movement in the grass.

Hippos rested in the shallow mud pools, barely visible save for their eyes peeking above the surface. The drive was peaceful, the kind of journey where the landscape slowly wraps around you in quiet beauty.

Then came the call that quickened every pulse in the jeep: a lion had been spotted feeding on a carcass. 

We veered left, instead of right (to our destination) with hearts and engines racing. And there he was hunched over the remains of an unfortunate animal. He was carefully camoflaged amongst the dry savannah and the occasional flick of his tail and ears, and the utter indifference he showed to our presence was pure, raw Africa. It was the circle of life—unfiltered, unscripted, unforgettable.

Knowing our fascination for simple pleasures, we made a quick but iconic stop at another point on the equator and indulged in more classic “one foot in the north, one foot in the south” photos.

Later that afternoon, we visited Lake Katonga, a serene crater lake tucked into the verdant folds of the Queen Elizabeth landscape. Part of the Crater Lakes area, this hidden gem shimmered under the late-day sun, surrounded by hills that dipped into the calm, mirror-like water. This was one of those rare, magical moments that feel almost too perfect to be real.

By sundown, we were back at Pumba Safari Cottages, where the view from the escarpment stretched out in golden layers. The savanna glowed beneath us, with the occasional elephant or buffalo lumbering through the grasslands far below. With sundowners in hand, we gathered on the deck to reminisce. Tales of gorilla treks, misty mountains, border crossings, and bumpy roads flowed as easily as the laughter.

Tomorrow, we make our final drive back to Tilapia Lodge in Entebbe. 

But tonight, we raise a toast to Uganda. To lions and crater lakes. To unexpected detours. To laundry done in bathroom sinks and sunsets that stop time. This country has been wild, warm, and full of wonder. And while our safari is drawing to a close, the memories are just getting started.