Our day begins in the sacred city of Kandy at 5 a.m., where we arrived just yesterday afternoon. With backpacks stuffed with breakfast, lunch, plenty of water, and snacks, we reach Loolecondera Tea Estate two hours later by hired van, the starting point of Pekoe Trail Stage 03, considered to be the hardest of the 22 stages. The Loolecondera Estate was the first tea plantation estate in Sri Lanka, established in 1867 by Scotsman James Taylor. 

The morning unfolds perfectly—the kind of day you dream about when planning a hike. The sun shines brightly, the wind is brisk but not harsh, and the cool air is invigorating. Our group of nine hikers sets off with high spirits, eager to tackle the 17 kilometers ahead and ascend to 1,400 meters.

The first few kilometers are an absolute delight. The scenery is nothing short of spectacular, with rolling hills and tea plantations stretching out as far as the eye can see. Sunlight dances on dew-kissed leaves, and the views are simply stunning. I pause, take a deep breath, and feel utterly grateful to be alive and immersed in nature’s splendour.

As we continue, the path meanders through lush greenery, and we’re fortunate enough to have packed a little refreshment—gin and tonic, the perfect mid-hike indulgence. Sipping our drinks while soaking in the views feels like a small luxury, a celebration of the beauty around us. Everything is going perfectly, and we couldn’t have asked for a better start to the day.

At one point, Krishni, one of our fellow hikers, has the sole of her boot come off—a hiker’s nightmare, especially in difficult conditions. We all rally around her, searching for a solution. Fortunately, I have an unused heel guard in my pack, and we manage to bind the shoe together to keep it functional for the rest of the journey. It’s a makeshift fix, but it holds together, and we press on.

The highest point of this trail leads us through the Pidurutalagala Forest Reserve to the summit at 1,400 meters. The path to the top is overgrown, steep, and barely visible. Sharp Ceylon Citronella (mana or heen pangiri) grasses slice into my arms, leaving them stinging and red. Leeches are plentiful, quickly finding their way onto our clothing. There’s no time to pause; each delay only gives more leeches a chance to latch onto us! As we climb higher, so do the leeches. They seem to appear out of nowhere, taking full advantage of the damp conditions. Every few steps, we stop to check for the little bloodsuckers, flicking them off before they can do too much damage. But by now, I’m quite used to these creatures (although I still despise them) and try to focus on the path ahead of me.

Over the mountain we enter the Stellenberg Tea Estate where we stop to have our lunch overlooking lush tea fields, some of which are dotted with cheerful pluckers, quite oblivious to the harsh conditions, but welcoming us with toothless smiles, stained by the constant chewing of betel and words of encouragement.

We pass temples, and kovils and even a quaint looking church, all graced by devout estate folk who relentlessly pray for better outcomes in life.

After about four hours of hiking we then traverse through the Hellbodde Estate and this is when things take an unexpected turn and the weather begins to change. The sun disappears behind thick clouds, and before we know it, mist starts rolling in. The temperature drops, and soon we’re enveloped in a cold, damp fog. The mist quickly turns into rain—a cold, relentless drizzle that soaks us through in minutes. And, of course, I haven’t brought a raincoat. The chill sets in quickly, and I can feel it seeping into my bones, making each step more challenging than the last.

By the time we come to the famous Glenloch Viewpoint, the entire valley is obscured by a thick mist and rain. There is nothing to keep us excited and each of us are now determined to put one wet boot in front of the other and slowly keep moving onwards. My concern now is trying not to slip or slide down the steep stone steps that provide us shortcuts through tea fields.

Despite the challenges, we try to keep each other’s spirits up as we push through the rain and the cold. By the time we reach our abode, the Glenloch Hotel in Thavalantenna after eight hours of hiking, my boots are filled with water, and my feet are killing me.  After a long shower, we gather around to imbibe in a well deserved drink and a hearty meal that soon warms us up. 

At this point we have taken a collective decision to postpone stage 04 planned for tomorrow, as the weather is still unsuitable for hiking. 

The hike from Loolcondera to Thavalantenna is far from easy, but it’s a stage of this trail that I was determined to complete. The stunning views, the unexpected weather, the impromptu shoe repair, and even the leeches—all of it combines to create a day that tests us but also reminds us of the beauty of nature and the spirit of perseverance .

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