After exploring the canals and charm of Amsterdam, my European journey brought me into Belgium, my second country on this trip. I had already spent time discovering Brussels and Bruges, taking in their grand squares, medieval streets and fascinating history. Now it was time for Ghent—a city I had been looking forward to seeing.
I checked into Hotel De Flandre, conveniently located in the historic city centre, and set out to explore. Ghent immediately felt different from Bruges. While Bruges has the charm of a perfectly preserved medieval town, Ghent feels more vibrant and lived-in, with centuries-old buildings sharing the streets with trams, cafés, students and everyday city life.
My time here would take me through medieval streets, along the Leie River, across historic bridges and into magnificent churches and landmarks. And, of course, there would be a boat ride—a wonderful way to see Ghent from the water.
With Brussels and Bruges behind me, it was time to discover what makes Ghent so special.
The striking façade of Saint Michael’s Church (Sint-Michielskerk) in Ghent, Belgium. Built in the late Gothic style using local Lede stone, the church is best known for its massive unfinished west tower, which was originally planned to rise much higher but was never completed.
The church stands beside a historic cobblestone square that links some of Ghent’s most iconic landmarks, including the picturesque Graslei waterfront and St. Michael’s Bridge. This central location makes it a popular stop for visitors exploring the city’s medieval architecture and scenic canals.
I stand at the historic centre of Ghent, seen from near St. Michael’s Bridge. Rising above the surrounding buildings are the distinctive medieval towers of Saint Nicholas’ Church and the Ghent Belfry, two of the city’s most recognizable landmarks and symbols of its rich history. Traditional Flemish gabled brick and stone buildings line the narrow cobblestone street, while a canopy of mature trees adds greenery to the urban landscape. The combination of medieval architecture and well-preserved streets creates one of Ghent’s most picturesque and historic cityscapes.
The historic Graslei and Korenlei along the Leie River in Ghent is lined with beautifully preserved medieval guildhalls and traditional step-gabled houses. The striking tower of the former Post Office adds a distinctive neo-Gothic touch to this iconic waterfront scene.
These medieval guild houses lining the Graslei quay along the Leie River, showcasing traditional Flemish stepped-gable architecture with their colourful façades and riverside setting makes Graslei one of the city’s most picturesque landmarks. I am absolutely amazed at such beauty and detail.
Saint Nicholas’ Church (Sint-Niklaaskerk) is one of Ghent’s oldest and most striking medieval landmarks, stands beside the Korenmarkt in the heart of the historic city centre. Built in the early 13th century in the Scheldt Gothic style, it is distinguished by its blue-grey Tournai stone and impressive central tower. Traditionally supported by the city’s merchant guilds, the church is dedicated to Saint Nicholas, patron saint of traders and sailors. Its tower forms part of Ghent’s famous medieval skyline alongside the Belfry and St. Bavo’s Cathedral.
The Groot Vleeshuis (Great Butcher’s Hall) is a striking 15th-century Gothic building on the banks of the Leie River. Once the city’s central indoor meat market, it features a magnificent timber roof designed like an inverted ship’s hull, along with stepped gables and narrow arched windows. Today, this historic landmark promotes East Flemish regional products and gastronomy, preserving its connection with Ghent’s long culinary and commercial traditions.
The Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts) is an imposing medieval fortress in the heart of Ghent, dating back to 1180. Built by Philip of Alsace as a residence for the Counts of Flanders, its massive stone walls, towers and battlements give it a distinctive fairytale-like appearance. Today, the castle is a museum where visitors can explore its medieval history, including weapons, armour, torture instruments and prison chambers. Its dramatic setting among cobblestone streets and traditional Flemish buildings makes it one of Ghent’s most iconic landmarks.
The Leie River flowing through Ghent’s historic Graslei and Korenlei area is lined with medieval guild houses and traditional canal boats. Saint Michael’s Church, with its distinctive unfinished tower, rises in the background, while historic stone bridges add to the picturesque medieval setting.
Looking up I spot the playful bronze statues of Lena, Nestor and Luna on Kraanlei, which offers a charming modern touch to the city’s medieval streetscape. Nestor, the boy in the centre, is flanked by Lena and Luna, two girls whose names were inspired by local twins. The three figures were installed together in 2014, adding a whimsical character to this historic corner of Ghent.
Mammelokker, a striking 1741 Baroque bas-relief attached to the Belfry of Ghent, depicts the legend of a daughter secretly breastfeeding her imprisoned father, saving him from starvation. Designed by architect David ’t Kindt, the sculpture stands above the entrance of the former city prison annex. The name Mammelokker refers to the act of suckling and reflects the sculpture’s unusual and poignant story, making it one of Ghent’s more curious historical details.
The ornate façade of the Oude Vismijn (Old Fish Market) on Sint-Veerleplein features an impressive 17th-century gateway crowned by a statue of Neptune, god of the sea, holding his trident. He is flanked by figures representing the Scheldt and Leie rivers, reflecting Ghent’s long connection with its waterways. Today, the beautifully restored building serves as an event and dining venue in the heart of Ghent’s historic centre.
Seeing the city whilst on a boat ride along the Leie River offers a wonderful way to see Ghent’s medieval architecture from the water, passing landmarks such as the Groot Vleeshuis (Great Butcher’s Hall), historic guild houses and centuries-old quays. It’s a relaxing way to experience the city’s historic centre from a different perspective.
The Delirium Tremens is a popular student bar and refers to the famous Belgian strong blond ale brewed by Brouwerji Huyghe. The sign stands out against an old stone façade, with the historic Ghent Belfry rising behind it. Nearby, the modern Ghent City Pavilion (Stadshal) creates an interesting contrast between the city’s medieval heritage and contemporary architecture. And yes, I did try that ale!
A traditional stepped-gable building on Groentenmarkt is home to the long-established Télesco SHOP 1939. Founded in 1939 as an umbrella shop, the family-run boutique today sells umbrellas, hats, scarves, gloves and other accessories.
The Old Post Office (Groot Postkantoor) on Ghent’s Korenmarkt is a striking example of neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance architecture. Designed by architect Louis Cloquet and built between 1898 and 1910, its ornate stone façade, arched windows and dramatic tower complement the medieval buildings surrounding the square. Today, the former post office has been beautifully repurposed as a boutique hotel and mixed-use complex, blending Ghent’s historic character with modern life.
St. Michael’s Bridge spans the Leie River in the heart of Ghent, offering one of the city’s most famous views of its medieval skyline. Beside it stands St. Michael’s Church, the late-Gothic church known for its distinctive unfinished tower.
The Ghent City Hall (Stadhuis) is a remarkable architectural blend of Flamboyant Late Gothic and Renaissance styles. The richly decorated Gothic façade on Hoogpoort contrasts dramatically with the more restrained Renaissance wing on Botermarkt, reflecting the changing tastes of the 16th and 17th centuries. Located in the heart of Ghent’s historic centre, the City Hall has been the city’s political centre since the 14th century and contains more than 50 rooms, including the historic Wedding Chapel.
There are some places that accidentally add color and contrast and this is Ghent’s special place. Werregarenstraatje (Graffiti Street) is a narrow alley in the historic centre of Ghent, transformed into a colourful, ever-changing canvas for street artists. The graffiti tolerance zone began as a project during the 1995 Ghent Festivities and has since become one of the city’s best-known street-art spots. Its walls are constantly repainted, so the artwork can look completely different from one visit to the next—a lively contrast to Ghent’s surrounding medieval architecture.
Saint Bavo’s Cathedral, also known as Sint-Baafs Cathedral is a Roman Catholic cathedral in Ghent. The 89-metre-tall (292 ft) Gothic building is the seat of the Diocese of Ghent and is named for Saint Bavo of Ghent. It contains the well-known Ghent Altarpiece, also called the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb.
he grand interior of St. Bavo’s Cathedral showcases magnificent Gothic architecture, featuring an ornate choir screen, carved wooden choir stalls, a marble high altar and a striking black-and-white checkerboard floor. The soaring vaulted ceilings and richly decorated furnishings reflect centuries of artistic and religious heritage.
As the seat of the Diocese of Ghent, the cathedral is also home to numerous masterpieces, including the world-renowned Ghent Altarpiece. The Ghent Altarpiece (The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb), completed in 1432 by Hubert and Jan van Eyck, is one of the greatest masterpieces of Early Netherlandish art. Displayed in St. Bavo’s Cathedral, the monumental polyptych is celebrated for its extraordinary detail, vivid colours and complex religious imagery, centred on the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. Widely regarded as one of the most influential works in European art history, the altarpiece has undergone extensive restoration and remains one of the world’s most famous and historically significant paintings.
A colourful stained-glass window inside St. Bavo’s Cathedral (Sint-Baafskathedraal) is framed by intricate Gothic stone tracery. Biblical scenes and heraldic details glow against the cathedral’s dark, monumental interior, creating a striking play of light and colour.
The Viglius Triptych, painted in 1571 by Frans Pourbus the Elder, is a Flemish Renaissance masterpiece displayed in St. Bavo’s Cathedral. Its central panel portrays Christ Among the Doctors within a grand classical architectural setting, surrounded by richly detailed figures in contemporary dress. Created for the burial chapel of the statesman Viglius van Aytta, the triptych is signed and dated by the artist, making it an important example of 16th-century Flemish religious art.
The Baroque funerary monument of Bishop Joannes-Baptist De Smet inside St. Bavo’s Cathedral is an elaborate marble masterpiece created by sculptor Jacques Bergé in 1745. It features the reclining effigy of the 14th Bishop of Ghent resting on a richly decorated sarcophagus, accompanied by angelic figures and crowned with cherubs holding his heraldic coat of arms.
The Romanesque crypt beneath St. Bavo’s Cathedral is one of the cathedral’s oldest surviving spaces, characterized by massive stone arches, sturdy columns and medieval brickwork. Its terracotta-tiled floor and subdued lighting create a solemn atmosphere, reflecting the simplicity and enduring craftsmanship of early medieval architecture.
And just like that, my time in Belgium comes to an end. After exploring Brussels, Bruges and Ghent, it is time to move on to the next chapter of my European adventure.
Next stop: Paris, France.
I’m taking the train from Ghent to Paris, leaving behind Belgium’s medieval streets, canals and grand architecture and heading towards one of the world’s most iconic cities. From the Eiffel Tower and the Seine to historic neighbourhoods, museums, cafés and, of course, plenty of French culture and food, there is a lot to look forward to.
Belgium has been a wonderful second country on this journey. Now, with my bags packed and another train journey ahead, it’s bonjour, Paris!
