Day 03: One Loop. And a Triangle. Chiang Rai Thailand

We woke up to the news that South Africa had beaten the All Blacks 29–24 in Soweto the night before, so there was already plenty of rugby banter flying around at breakfast.

We were not in any great hurry today. With a 9:00 a.m. departure, there was time for a leisurely breakfast, the usual checks and a little conversation before getting back on the bikes. Our plan was a 202-kilometre loop from Chiang Rai, taking us to one of the most famous and intriguing corners of Southeast Asia, the Golden Triangle, before bringing us back to Chiang Rai.

And I had to admit, AB was improving. After yesterday’s gentle introduction to the concept of regular coffee and stretch breaks, our ride captain was beginning to understand that stopping occasionally was not a sign of weakness. In fact, he was getting quite good at the pit stops. Progress! Then there was Vishnu, who continued to prove himself the most amiable and organised member of the operation. Calm, cheerful and seemingly always one step ahead, he had the whole expedition running smoothly without ever making it feel overly organised. Which, when you have a group of Sri Lankans on eight motorcycles, is quite an achievement. But, even he seemed impressed by our punctuality and how seamlessly we travelled as a group.

The roads were another story altogether. They were fantastic.

Smooth surfaces, sweeping bends, beautiful mountain scenery and very little traffic made this one of those riding days when you begin to understand why people rave about motorcycle touring in Northern Thailand. Even sitting behind AB on the Himalayan, I could feel the difference. There was something wonderfully liberating about watching the road curve ahead, feeling the bike lean into the bends and seeing the landscape change around us.

The riders were loving it. In fact, more than one declared that this was already among the best motorcycle rides they had ever done. And we were only on Day Two of riding.

Our first major destination was the Golden Triangle, the famous border region where Thailand, Myanmar and Laos meet around the Mekong and Ruak rivers.  The name sounds glamorous, but its history is anything but simple. The region became internationally notorious for its role in the production and trafficking of opium, particularly during the 20th century. Remote mountains, difficult terrain and porous borders created conditions in which opium cultivation and the trade that grew around it flourished.

Today, of course, the landscape looks very different. Visitors come to see the meeting point of three countries, take photographs, explore museums and cruise along the Mekong.

Our long-tail boat took us out onto the Mekong, giving us a completely different perspective of the Golden Triangle.

From the water, we could look across at Laos and Myanmar, with Thailand behind us, and for a few minutes it really did feel as though we were standing at the meeting point of three countries. And, naturally, our group was far more interested in getting the perfect three-country photograph.

But one side of the river had a rather strange story to tell. Across the water was what locals and visitors sometimes refer to as the “lost city”, a sprawling development of Chinese-built hotels, apartment blocks and other structures that now sit largely empty or underused. Seen from the river, the rows of buildings looked strangely out of place against the surrounding mountains and greenery. It was one of those unexpected sights that makes you stop taking photographs and start asking questions.

The Mekong itself was calm and wide, but this was a landscape layered with history, trade and more than a little mystery. Tarique, meanwhile, had taken on the role of onboard commentator, giving us a running commentary as though we were on a National Geographic expedition. Nothing he said was true, of course!

Back on dry land, we simply crossed the road to the House of Opium Museum.

The small private museum was founded by local historian and collector Phatcharee Srimathayakun, who began studying the history of the opium trade and collecting artefacts in the late 1980s. The museum opened in 1989 and has since built up a substantial collection relating to opium and the communities of the Golden Triangle.

Inside, the story became considerably more serious.

The exhibits explain how opium was cultivated, harvested and prepared, and show the tools and equipment associated with the trade. There are photographs, old artefacts and displays that help explain the complicated relationship between opium, the hill communities and the wider networks that developed around the trade. Standing there looking at the old tools and photographs, it was difficult to reconcile that history with the peaceful tourist destination we had just experienced from the river.

And that was one of the things I was enjoying most about this trip. We weren’t simply riding through beautiful scenery. Every now and then, the road was taking us into a completely different chapter of history.

Back on the motorcycles, we headed towards Doi Tung, climbing into the mountains towards the Doi Tung Royal Villa. Somewhere in between, we lost the back end of the bikers but used this time to stretch our legs.

The change in scenery was remarkable. The heat was still very much with us, despite some light showers, but the roads became more winding, and the landscape greener as we climbed. This was motorcycle territory at its best.

The heat of the day had worked up quite an appetite, so we settled down for lunch at the restaurant there. Ordering, however, turned into an adventure of its own. One wanted no meat but was perfectly happy with fish. Another wanted meat but absolutely no fish. Two drew a firm line at pork, while most of the others wisely avoided the entire negotiation and went straight for Pad Thai and Mango Sticky Rice.

By the time everyone had explained what they could, could not, would and absolutely would not eat, ordering lunch had become a group exercise in diplomacy. Ironically, despite all the careful negotiations, most of the plates somehow ended up in front of Tarique, who seemed perfectly happy with this arrangement, happily sampling everyone else’s meals as though he had personally ordered the entire table. Perhaps this was his secret strategy all along: let everyone else do the negotiating and then eat the results.

The Doi Tung Royal Villa is the former mountain residence of Princess Srinagarindra, the most respected Princess Mother, and is closely connected to the remarkable transformation of the Doi Tung region.

The area had once suffered from deforestation, poverty and opium cultivation. In 1988, the Doi Tung Development Project was established under the Princess Mother’s initiative, focusing on livelihoods, education, health and environmental restoration rather than simply trying to eliminate the drug trade. The results have been striking. Forest cover increased dramatically, communities developed alternative sources of income and the region became known for coffee, macadamia, handicrafts, horticulture and tourism.

The Royal Villa itself is charming rather than ostentatious. We had to remove our shoes, cover our legs and asked to be respectful. Inside, the architecture combines elements of Northern Thai Lanna design with the simplicity of a Swiss chalet. Inside, the details are beautiful, including carved wooden panels and the extraordinary constellation ceiling, which represents the position of the stars on the Princess Mother’s birth date.

We wandered through the villa and grounds, taking our time and enjoying the mountain setting.

Eventually, it was time to point the bikes back towards Chiang Rai.

The return ride was every bit as enjoyable as the morning. By now, the group had settled into a comfortable rhythm. We knew the bikes, we knew the road routine, we knew where the breaks were likely to happen and, most importantly, AB was now stopping without having to be reminded quite so often. By the time we completed our 202-kilometre loop and returned to Chiang Rai, we were hot, tired and extremely happy to be back at the Grand Vista Hotel.

Day Three had taken us from the excitement of the Golden Triangle and the meeting point of three countries, into the darker history of the opium trade, and then up into the mountains to see how a royal initiative helped transform an entire region.

Tomorrow was going to be a different kind of ride. We were heading to Pai, our longest riding day yet, and onto the famous Mae Hong Son Loop, with its legendary 4,000-plus bends. More mountain roads, more twists and turns, and a whole lot more time in the saddle. It was going to be one serious day on two wheels!